Maxwell Render

I'm trying to make a silly testrender.. it's still cooking and
will continue through the night but this is it after 4 hours on lowprio.

It's still very very noisy even after 4 hours and i don't know why.. all materials are simple just like the scene setup.

[Edit] : This is a updated rendering after 15 hours 43 minutes of numbercrunching during the night.



/ Max

Hi Max.
You forgot to add a cat.
Everybody knows if you add a cat, the render clears up much quicker.
Ooops, or maybe in your case an aurora borealis HDRI.
One of those two changes should smoothe things out a bit.
Or, um, use Studio.

Hi Larry

Hehehe you're right, a cat in the corner makes every render clear up much
faster. I never thought of that great suggestion, i'll redo the scene and
add the little kitten to it.

Thanks for your comments, i appreciate them and i know this is ugly
rendering so that's why i placed it far away here in the Rhino section where noone will find it hehe

/ Max

Hey Max,
I forgot to mention your elecrtrical receptical has only two plugs.
Very unsafe.
You need to add that third ground wire. I don't want you to have a *shocking experience*.
As for cats, try a 20 lb orange tabby, to heck with kittens. Sometimes known as a Ginger Tom.
A nice clip mask and presto you're there!
cheers.

You're right Larry, stupid me forgot the ground connector in the wallsocket.

I'll skip that grounded third wire as Chuck Norris would never install wallsockets which are grounded. I shall follow his advice

Good cat advice, thanks i'll keep in mind for my future update on this crap

/ Max

Hey, Max.
Actually, what might be nice is to have a mouse hole, with just the shadow of Le Cat.
The fun of it is, its a *render*. It is what we make it.
Have some fun.

hey Max, ....maybe a little info so we can figure why we're not clearing up on this.... ?


on a good note, .....that laquered brass material is very nice as well as the glass on the bulb, ....but you really need to add some sort of filament and mounting apparatus, ....I don't know what it's called, .....you know what I mean.


Question: ....... is that bulb a single revolved surface ?

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Hiya Chris

Ofourse i'll give ya info, but i never expected any replies to this test so you
kinda caught me off guard now.

Thanks glad to hear you liked the laquered brass, it's a new testmaterial i
put together. I'll post it tomorrow along with the finished rendering..

The bulb object itself is a common revolved surve with a inside and a outside
so the bulb has a actual thickness to it, like the real thing. And then i made a
what i thought was good looking glass to fit that bulb, it also has a texture on it to give the glass speculars a faint "broken" look.

About the filaments or whatever they call the inside stuff of the lamps hehe i shoulda modeled that too but it slipped my mind. I might do that later and then re-render it again to make the scene a bit more interesting and with a couple o more objects to it..

Thanks!

/ Max

Ok, one crit.
The corner seam of the walls don't match the corners of the moulding.
Is that the result of lighting?
*And* there's no cat.

Alright Max, .... thx.

glypticmax, ..... I believe the corner/moulding is the result of our perspective vantage point. Similar to that of parallax error. Unless the cam was at a perfect 45 from the corner you can expect that sort of thing. Plus, ...you have to consider the
thickness of the moulding itself is also adding to the visual 'error'.

Max can confirm the alignment, ...I'll bet that it's where it should be.

Still though, ......there's no cat and this could be the sole cause of the problem. I think if we're going to get this world righted, ......we're going to need to get that sorted out.

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it looks like the moulding has more of a butt joint instead of a miter joint(??) that would also contribute to the apparent "offset". I like the brass material too. . .I know this is an obvious one, but are your RGB values over 200?

Yep on the butt joint, ....but I can't even make it out ..... blurry....

good call though.......

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Interior corners are better coped rather than mitered. In a situation like that, a mitered joint will nearly always separate. Outer corners, of course, should be mitered.

Great job on the modeling and texturing Max. Maybe some info about the lighting and the rest of the scene would help someone figure out where the excess noise is coming from.

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What exactly does a rhino coping saw look like ? I'm very interested.

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